newsminer.com

I just finished reading a great book, “The Shipping News” by E. Annie Proulx. The story takes place in the small town of Killick-Claw, Newfoundland. Besides being an enjoyable read, one of the things I noted about the book is how the people in this fictional harbor town came up with different ways to prepare cod.

Who knew there were so many different ways to prepare cod? In cod, they do trust! There were other interesting food mentions as well, the traditional Newfie breakfast of fried bologna, baked beans, toast, and coffee or juice, or how about a juicy squid burger for lunch?

A coworker of mine just returned from Valdez with 65 pounds of halibut, and a cold. There are a hundred great things to do with halibut. Barbecue, fry, saute, bake in macadamia nut crust, or just simply baked. A halibut’s (or cod’s for that matter) mild flavor opens it up for just about anything.

But this article isn’t about cod, nor is it about halibut. It’s about salmon. Although, these recipes could just as easily be used with cod, halibut or salmon.

Many years ago, while working at a hotel in Oregon, I had the opportunity to work with a visiting chef from Alsace, France, named Chef Mater. To welcome and entertain him, we had a small dinner party at a friend’s house. The group of us — a bunch of chefs — stood around a large free-standing mortar and pestle and made pesto to pair with our Chinook salmon and grilled tenderloin steaks. Including your guests in the preparation of your meal can be a treat for them and a great help for you.

Pesto is a great sauce for a lot of different dishes, but salmon tops my list.

PESTO

1 clove garlic

3 tablespoons pine nuts

1/2 cup parmigiano, grated

2 cups basil leaves

1/2 cup olive oil

Kosher salt as needed

Be sure to pick through your basil to remove any bad leaves and stems. Use a good parmigiano-reggiano blend — it will be a little more expensive, but a little wedge will grate into a lot of cheese. You can find pine nuts on the aisle with other nuts or, better yet, in the cooler in bulk in the nutrition department (typically a little cheaper than the ones found on the aisle). Pine nuts stay fresher in a cooler because of their high oil content.

Start by peeling and chopping the garlic. Add to the mortar with pine nuts and a good pinch of salt. Using a strong grinding motion, crush the garlic and pine nuts to a paste. Add the basil a bit at a time until you have a coarse mixture. Do this by grinding the leaves against the side and bottom of the mortar. Add another good pinch of salt.

When you have a coarse paste incorporate the cheese. Still working the pestle, add the oil a bit at a time. The end result should be smooth without any big pieces. For best results, use the pesto right away. Over time it begins to lose its rich color and great flavor. It can be stored for later use, but typically, fresh is best.  • • •

This is a great simple salsa. Not a fan of peaches? Try using mango or papaya. Don’t be afraid of the jalapeno peppers in this salsa, the little bit of heat gives a nice complement to the peach. Onion and tomato round out the flavor.

PEACH SALSA

3 to 4 ripe peaches

1 small red onion

3 roma tomatoes

2 jalapenos (more or less)

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

2 limes

1 pinch of salt

1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar

Using a sharp knife, slice down the sides of the peach all around the pit. I like to remove some of the skin, but you don’t have to. Dice the peaches into 1/4-inch cubes. Dice the onion and tomato. Finely dice the jalapenos. Add a pinch of salt, the juice of the limes and the rice wine vinegar. Mix well, letting the flavors meld in the fridge for an hour or two (not necessary, but it does add to the flavor).

PINOT NOIR BUTTER

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup pinot noir

2 shallots, chopped

Pinot noir is a perfect wine to accompany salmon. It’s soft but has a substantial flavor despite its delicacy. A dollop of this butter on a nice pan-seared or broiled salmon is unforgettable.

In a small saucepan reduce the pinot noir with the shallots over a light boil until you have about one tablespoon of liquid left in the pan. Strain and let the mixture cool, and then incorporate the wine into the butter and chill until ready to use.

This following recipe has the same beautiful wow of pesto in color and flavor. This salmon dish would be best served with a white wine like a pinot gris or a chardonnay that has not seen any oak.

LEMON AND PARSLEY SAUCE

4 cups parsley (loosely packed)

2 shallots sliced thin

1 cup water

1-2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Soften the shallots with the oil over medium heat in a saucepan. Add the water and reduce it by half. Add the cream and reduce again, this time by about a third. Add the parsley and then pour the sauce into a blender and add the lemon juice, pulse a few times and then serve over your salmon.

I hope you try these recipes. I think you’ll enjoy their simplicity, versatility and flavor. Again, they don’t have to be used with salmon — try them with halibut or even cod. Consider making all of them for your next dinner party and let your guests mix and match them.

Please feel free to e-mail me with any question or comments.

I enjoy hearing from you.

Darryl Allan is food and beverage director for Fountainhead Hotels, which includes Zach's Restaurant at Sophie Station Hotel. He enjoys sharing his passion for fun, creative and great-tasting food. E-mail him at fb@fdifairbanks.com.